No-one knows more about beauty than spa aetheticians, manicurists and massage gurus. So, to help you pamper yourself like a pro, here are 10 tricks of the trade from owners of some of the world's most prestigious salons and spas

1. Smooth fine lines and wrinkles

World-famous spa fix:
As you age, tissue-firming collagen and elastin fibres in your skin break down as overall muscle tone and skin quality and texture decline. New York’s Exhale Mind Body Spa’s Anti-ageing treatment sets the trend with their Acu-lift facial. Small needles are inserted into the skin to irritate the outer layer; the skin then responds by producing more collagen and elastin fibres.

Here in SA, The Bay Skin Care Institute offers non-surgical face-lifts. These work wonders when done regularly, and they’re pain-free. A machine stimulates muscles to firm and tighten skin, relieve tension, improve circulation and stimulate cellular metabolism. Also new in SA is The Genie take Ten, touted as a 10-minute non-surgical facelift.

Your DIY version:
Follow a good skincare regime containing either vitamin A for cell regeneration, vitamin C for antioxidant repair or Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) for increased exfoliation. Note: apply products in an upward direction.

Help firm your skin with L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Double Lifting Pump (R149,95), a duo with a skin-tightening ingredient and a Pro-Retinol A wrinkle-fighting cream.

The SA Association for Health and Skin Care Professionals’ (SAAHSP) tips for younger-looking (and feeling) skin:

  • Avoid extreme hot or cold temperatures, as they can promote the deterioration of the skin’s collagen and elastin fibres.
  • Avoid late nights. The skin renews itself between 1am and 6am.
  • Don’t sleep on your side or on a high pillow. It can cause permanent wrinkling of your neck and cheeks.
  • Don’t smoke. It depletes your body’s store of vitamin C — the antioxidant that fights the free radicals that cause cellular destruction.
  • Don’t drink alcohol excessively. It can cause capillary damage and skin sensitivity, which leads to puffiness and a florid look.
  • Drink plenty of water. Good hydration prevents superficial lines.
  • Avoid the sun. Always use a good sunblock.
  • Exercise regularly. It increases the oxygen and nutrient flow to the skin.
  • Have monthly facials at a skin clinic

    2. Boost a dull complexion

    World-famous spa fix:
    New York’s cutting-edge Ohm spa is known to use grapefruit extract to boost complexion radiance. This is because the high vitamin-C content helps activate skin pigmentation cells for a resultant healthy glow.

    Locally, Pamela Cochrane Therapy offers a Skin Rejuvenation Treatment using the new Variable Pulse Light skin-resurfacing techniques. This treatment removes dulling surface debris, while stimulating cell renewal — for the ultimate golden glow. (Call Pamela Cochrane Therapy, 011-6167543.)

    your DIY version:
    Helena Sullivan from Delphinus Health Spa recommends exfoliating at least twice a week after cleansing, because, she says, "dead cells accumulate, and the more cream you use on top of those cells, the thicker the layers become, and your skin stays dry. By removing dead skin regularly, creams penetrate and your skin feels softer".

    Alternatively, get an Exfoliating Body Scrub from The Bay Skin Care Institute in Cape Town — a creamy, light-foaming body scrub with olive, fig and date seeds, plus softening rice, bran and papaya enzymes that slough off impurities, smooth skin and stimulate cell renewal. (Call 021-4346330).

    3. Tenderise rough, dry skin…

    World-famous spa fix:
    Spa owners are buzzing about the hydrating effects of honey. “Our most nourishing, moisturising facial involves manuka honey,” says Jonathan Ho, from New York’s Ohm spa. Ho cleanses, tones, exfoliates, massages and steams the skin, before spreading the honey over the face and neck. This form of honey helps attack bacteria without drying the skin.

    Your DIY version: Apply a honey mask straight from the bottle to your face and neck. Allow it to set until dry — about 15 minutes. Rinse with very warm water. Alternatively, look out for a treatment mask with ingredients like skin-nourishing royal jelly (a blend of proteins and bee-derived amino acids), or try Dermalogica’s Ultra-Calming Cleanser (R433), Daily Microfoliant (R557), Active Moisture (R366) and Skin Smoothing Cream (R565).

    4. Do away with dark rings…

    World-famous spa fix:
    For effective reduction of dark circles and puffiness in the eye area, go for treatments with a chilled, gel-based eye serum and vitamin-K cream. Salon eye treatments usually include massage (to increase circulation), and an eye wrap (to help reduce puffiness). A strong vitamin K cream helps control blood clotting (one cause of under-eye circles). The Guinot Hydradermie facial specifically treats puffiness and dark circles. Call the SAAHSP (011-7877416) for an accredited salon near you.

    Your DIY version:
    Gently massage your face in an upward, circular motion, then apply chilled cucumber slices, wet chamomile tea bags or ready-made cooling eye pads for 10 minutes. Store your eye-serum in the fridge — a soothing cool gel gives tired eyes an immediate pep-up. Try Hylexin (R995), now available from Metropolitain Cosmetics, or Estée Lauder Stress Relief Eye Mask (R250).

    The Bay Skin Care Institute also offers an eye gel that treats dehydration in the eye area and acts as a topical alternative to Botox. It uses vitamins A, C and E for firmer, smoother, healthier skin. Apply sparingly onto the under-eye area, patting gently.

    5. Smooth scaly body skin…

    World-famous spa fix:
    A sugar cane exfoliation is a popular Hawaiian spa treat incorporating macadamia and coconut oil to exfoliate and moisturise. Sugar polishes skin almost as effectively as glycolic acid, but it offers the added benefit of softening those rough spots.

    Spa Afrique, an SAAHSP-accredited skincare clinic, boasts an Algologie LifeStyle Centre, which uses seaweed beauty products to balance mind and body. The Algologie Seaweed Wrap claims to ease stress, fatigue and illness, which all take their toll on the skin. An Earth Sea Salt is used to exfoliate the skin, leaving it silky smooth. (Call Spa Afrique, 011-6785237.)

    Your DIY version:
    Prepare your body for an at-home treatment by dry-brushing with circular motions towards the heart. Cleanse the skin with a good-quality body wash (try the Body Shop’s), followed by exfoliation. Complete the routine with a rich body cream, oil or moisturiser.

    Sarah Daly, a trainer for s.k.i.n. salons, recommends exfoliating twice weekly with a granular body scrub containing something like apricot kernels. Also, use a body moisturiser that nourishes and resurfaces skin — Environ Dermalac is great for this.

    6. Soften dry hands and feet…

    World-famous spa fix:
    In Malaysia, rice water is a favourite moisturising remedy for dry hands and feet. The rice is soaked overnight. Water and rice is then blended into a paste with a pinch of turmeric (known for its anti-inflammatory properties).

    The Bay Skin Care Institute offers a deep penetrating paraffin wax treatment for manicure and pedicure sessions. Then there are Neostrata Chemical Peels, for treating sun-damaged hands through a course of in-store treatments and home-care routines.

    Your DIY version:
    Treat hands and feet regularly with Sh’Zen Spa Manicure for Hands and Feet. It contains grapefruit peel and lemon peel oils to condition and restore moisture and strength to hands and nails. (Call Sh’zen, 021-7613696.)

    SDV Pharmaceuticals' tips for hands:

  • Wash with a soap-free hand cleanser that’s rich in moisturisers — with lukewarm water, as hot water tends to dry out skin.
  • Always dry hands (and feet) thoroughly to prevent skin cracking.
  • Apply hand cream several times a day.
  • Use a hand cream with UV filters.
  • Gently exfoliate hands at least once a week. Sugar and oil make a great homemade exfoliator.
  • When washing dishes, apply hand cream before and after.
  • Wear gloves or mittens in winter to prevent dryness and cracking.

    7 control frizzy, fly-away hair…

    World-famous spa fix:
    Coconut oil works wonders with hair. "We massage a concoction of coconut, grapeseed and jojoba oils into the scalp and hair for about five minutes," says the founder of Bali-inspired JAMU Asian Spa Rituals in Montana. This trend-setting treatment is finished off with a 10-minute steam, followed by a double shampoo to remove the oil.

    Your DIY version:
    Opt for something like SexyHair Concepts’ CurlySexyhair shampoo (R115) and conditioner (R123), which contain jojoba seed oil, soy protein and silk amino acids, suggests Michael Conlin from Jo’burg’s Pure Hair Design (011-3252804). Note: if you give your hair an at-home deep oil treatment, always apply shampoo before rinsing, in order to lift the oil completely.

    8 boost limp, oily tresses…

    World-famous spa fix:
    Your hair needs natural oils to thrive, but too much can take you from sleek locks to oil slick in an instant. To “de-grease”, use a vinegar-based rinse. Spa Shiki in Montana uses this recipe: mix 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar with 2 cups water, and add the juice of 1/2 lemon. Massage into hair and scalp; leave in for about 10 minutes, then rinse with cool water.

    Your DIY version:
    Use Paul Mitchell Extra Body Daily Shampoo (R120) and Daily Rinse (R125), containing rosemary, jojoba, aloe, camomile and white ginger, suggests Conlin. "L'Anza Body Building Shampoo (R143) and Conditioner (R153), with keratin amino acids, herbal extracts and magnesium, curb oiliness and add body," he adds.

    9. Soothe dandruff

    World famous spa fix:
    "You can usually blame the flaky-scalp syndrome on fungus," says Jamie Ahn, owner of Acqua Beauty Bar in New York. Her spa trick? Tea tree oil, a natural anti-fungal agent. She applies a few drops to the scalp and gently massages it in for two minutes, then follows with a cool water rinse. Tea Tree oil will also soothe dandruff's characteristic itch

    Your DIY version:
    Wash with products like Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Hair and Scalp Treatment shampoo (R165), Conditioner (R185), Treatment (R210) and Oil (R145).

    10 Revitalise lacklustre locks

    World Famous spa tricks:
    An Indian head massage uses mineral rich oils and a circulation-stimulating massage to rejuvenate hair from scalp to tip. It's topped off with a cool-water rinse for shiny, truly touchable tresses. Contact the SAAHSP (011-7877416) for a good salon near you.

    Your DIY version:
    Michael Conlin recommends KMS daily Fixx Clarifying Shampoo (R132) and Treatment (R145) to eliminate product build-up and lift dullness caused by hard water and chlorine. Its soy protein, oat extract, kernel extract and citric acid add shine to damaged, dull hair.

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